Kevin Whitworth / Jacurutu

After lots of time spent at the climbing wall over winter and spring, it was finally time to get outside on some real rock yesterday. I took a trip over to Dalbeg sea cliffs, as according to the guide (Scottish Rock Volume 2 - North), Small West Wall had a selection of short Diff and Severe routes I figures I could self-belay on. Alas, the guidebook didn't have any photos of Small West Wall, and I struggled to find it at first. Hopefully, this photo might be of use to anyone wanting to climb there.

After finding it, and enjoying a quick picnic, I managed to do Original Route (VD) and the variation given in Original Route's description (break right onto the wall half way up - HS 4b). Both were very enjoyable (including a nice chimney section), if not too strenuous (and hence scary on a self-belay).

All I really need now is a nice crag near Stornoway where we can head for an hour or two on an evening. Anyone fancy transporting one of Yorkshire Gritstone crags up here for me!?!

Well, my heel is mostly better, and certainly good enough to climb on, so another trip to Almscliff was arranged. Mike's having his tonsils out (3rd time lucky!), and Gordon's gone to pastures new (BT), so it was just me and Ed. Hence no new photos (the one shown here is Ed on Low Man, from a few weeks back).

We started on the South West Face, and I repeated Bird's Nest Crack, which I'd lead with Mike last time out. This time round, it didn't seem quite so enjoyable (read "easy"), but perhaps the troubles after climbing this during the last session altered my perception of it? Ed didn't enjoy it either.

Next up we decided to try Central Crack, which defeated me last time. This time I'd come better prepared with new (and stickier) rock shoes, and more importantly, a large crash/bouldering mat. Getting off the ground is easy, but as you gain the crack, you run out of, well, everything. A few false starts led to arm jams across the crack, shortly followed by a nice soft landing on the crash pad, but eventually I worked out how to get into the crack, at which point it's a case of wriggling up it. Reaching the ledge gives some good gear placements, but then a rather exposed rib is the next challenge. I made it, although not exactly elegantly. The annoying thing was the guys busy climbing all round us without ropes - probably on harder routes. They did ask Ed why we were doing this route, as it's not very nice. I kind of agree, but at least I cracked it after last time.

On their recommendation, we moved on to The Traditional Climb, a VS 4c, so a little harder than what I've been climbing to date. The first couple of moves were OK, and I got a good friend placement. But from there on, it all went pear shaped. I made the next break, but there wasn't much to hand on to, and the next vertical crack flared the wrong way. End result was I found out the hard way how good the friend placement was! A combination of that plus the crash pad (yes, I decked out) meant a reasonably soft landing to my first lead fall. Unfortunately, I skinned my fingertips in the process, as they were jammed in a crack at the time. I had another go, but didn't even make it as far (although the friend got moved a bit higher). Ed took a go, and made it about half way up, but was too knackered to finish, and ended up lowering off of a large hex. Determined to finish it, I ran up top, set up a belay, and top roped Ed up to collect the gear. Not entirely sure we've made friends with either Leeds or Yorkshire Mountaineering Clubs, as they all turned up just before we started, and seemed to be waiting for us to finish messing around so they could have a go. Also, it was rather busy up top, so finding a belay point was somewhat challenging (a large sling around the top of the large boulder (someone else was using the base) was the best on offer).

Time for a break, and a look at the guidebook. We did look at The Goblin (too green and slimy), Zig Zag Direct (busy) and The Nose (didn't like the look of it), and then settled on Central Climb on the North West Face. The start went OK, but again I got a little way off the ground and bottled it, lowering off two nuts. Ed solo'd up to retrieve the nuts and we decided to call it a day.

So, in total, I clocked up two routes:

• Bird's Nest Crack (Almscliff Crag #56, HS 4b P1 **) - lead
  
• Central Crack (Almscliff Crag #48, HS 4b P1)

and I failed miserably (again) on two others:

• The Traditional Climb (Almscliff Crag #58, VS 4c P1 **) - fell off, bounced and skinned my fingers
  
• Central Climb (Almscliff Crag #108, VS 4c P1 **) - got off the ground, go stuck and lowered off

Route numbers and grades are from the 1998 edition of Yorkshire Gritstone, compiled, revised and edited by Dave Musgrove.

I'm really frustrated, and there seems to be little else available to climb at Almscliff without at least moving up to VS/4c. Unfortunately, I don't seem to be getting any better either. I'm half wondering whether to quit leading and either get Ed to belay from above, or set up a top-rope instead. Maybe that way I can concentrate on the technique and moves with less worry about the exposure? Alternatively, I'm going to look for somewhere else to try - perhaps Baildon or Ilkley (although I seem to recall Ilkley being similar - lots of poorly protected routes, and limited number of ~Severe routes). It looks like plans for Great Western may be on hold for this year.

Oh, and I did say I was after some new toys following the last session. Well, I acquired said bouldering mat, and it was well worth it. (OK, not sure it's worth the money, but I was very glad we had it.) Plus I got some Mad Rock Mugen climbing shoes, which are really good, if not exactly as comfy as my old pair. That just leaves the following on the shopping list (none of which is likely to be any real advantage):

• A new harness - to better organise my lead rack, and keep it away from my back for doing chimneys (OK - this is a lame excuse, but I just fancy a new harness, and I spotted a Wild Country harness in the shop at the Leeds Wall which looks pretty much exactly what I've been searching for ever since I started climbing, and up to now hadn't found)
  
• Bigger protection - I'm thinking a #4 Friend or a #9 Rockcentric (or bigger - I'm sure you used to be able to get a #10 Hex from Camp, when you were allowed to buy them and rope them up yourself)

No photos from this weeks climbing session I'm afraid, so you'll have to make do with this one from the previous week of Ed topping out on Pinnacle Flake Climb (S 4a *) on Low Man instead.

The reason for the lack of photos was that there was just me an Mike this week (although Steve turned up later and did a spot of bouldering) meaning there was lots of climbing (well...see later) and not much time for photos especially as I was constantly on one end of a rope. I suppose I could have asked Mike if I could take him off belay to take some photos, but I'm quite confident I know what his answer would have been!

Having had a good bash as Low Man last week, I thought it would be nice to try the main crag this time, and the South West Face seemed to have a reasonable selection, so we went straight there. Starting left to right (or going backwards through the guide book), we started off by Bird's Nest Crack (HS 4b **), which went fine, and was probably a good intro to jamming on grit for Mike. The next obvious choice was the next HS, Crack and Wall (HS 4b) up the left corner of the Crucifix block. Clearly I was feeling a bit cocky, as I'd ignored the P2 warning. The first couple of moves are fine, but then you've got a couple more moves up to the ledge atop Crucifix with no protection (well, I couldn't get any in). A size 3 friend wedged in the horizontal break at the top gave me the confidence to mantle up on to the ledge, at which point I recovered the friend for the next emergency and replaced it with something else. So far so good. The guidebook then says: "step up and left using flutes into the chimney", which sounds easy. It probably is, but it's very exposed, and there's not much in the way of either gear placements or decent hand holds. And the break for your feet slowly disappears underneath a bulge. After much dithering, I figured the only choice was to go for it, and hope that the break above the flutes actually presented a half decent handhold. Not quite a dyno move, but if I'd not found anything to grab on to, I'm not sure what would have happened. Once in the chimney the rest of the climb was fine.

So feeling good, and thinking I'd got the hang of HS 4b climbs, we looked for the next one. This is Central Crack (HS 4b *). The guidebook says "grunt or glide up the wide smooth rounded crack...” What it didn't say was that the crack sort of starts about 3 feet off the floor. There are a couple of decent jugs to hang on to, but the first foothold is at waist height (and rather polished). I managed to get off the floor a couple of times, but simply found nowhere to go - one arm (that's arm, as in hand-to-elbow) wedged (just) in the crack, one holding onto one of the big jugs, both feet on slippery rock, completely off balance and nowhere obvious to go to next. After a few attempts, I gave up. As consolation, Steve tells me the bouldering guide has it down at 5a, although quick cross reference with French/indoor grades puts it at 4/4+, which given I've been leading up to 6a indoors, doesn't act as much consolation.

So, keeping going left, the next possibility is South Chimney Layback (S 4b). This is a vertical crack leading to a ledge and flake. Clearly the crux is jamming up the crack (it says so in the guide book). OK, sounds fun. Except the start is rather polished, and there's nothing much for your feet. I spent a lot of time looking at it, with my fingers in the crack (which is quite narrow - hand jams wouldn't have been as much of a problem). Starting from its left gives you an option to layback (slightly) up the crack, but really nothing for your feet. Starting on the right gives you a small rock to stand on (extra height!) and a small niche I could get a toe or two into. This seemed like the better plan, so after much looking, testing my fingers and looking for a proper hold (there aren't any), I wedged my fingers and left foot in the crack and pulled. Hurray - off the ground at last. Then "Oh s**t!" as my fingers let go. I landed heavily on my left heel, followed by my backside and rolled over backwards. Not very elegant, and my heel hurts (hence the "possibly broken" of the title).

I know when I've been beaten, so it's time to move down a grade to South Chimney (D). "The prominent chimney is something of a thrutch as a start." Well it's only a Diff, so it can't be too bad, can it? Well, it can. Actually, it's not that difficult. The trick (to the first bit) is to start facing the correct way. Unfortunately, it's not a wide chimney (and I'm not exactly svelte), so the traditional back-and-feet approach doesn't work. Feet, knees, back and stomach seemed to do the trick, but it was hardly graceful and elegant. Clearing the first chimney, it gets somewhat easier, but then you end up in a similar position higher up. If I keep climbing chimneys, I'm going to have to find a harness which racks gear more round my sides than my back, because everything is now heavily scratched (about a month ago, most of my outdoor gear looked pristine). I doubt it did my little point-and-shoot camera much good either, which was clipped to my harness as well. Once on top, things didn't look much better, as there wasn't much obvious for rigging a belay. I got it done eventually (and Mike realised why it took me so long once he'd got up), but lets say I wouldn't have liked to test it (mostly because I'd probably have ended up halfway down the chimney, rather than it wouldn't have held).

So, after struggling up a Diff, it was either time to give up and go home, or go try something I knew I could do. I didn't want to be defeated, and Mike was still up for carrying on, so we headed down to Low Man, which was looking decidedly busier than the South West Face. Pinnacle Flake Climb (S 4a *) looked free (someone was on both Fluted Columns and Low Man Easy Way), and although I'd climbed it last week, Ed lead it and I seconded it (well, thirded it as Gordon went second), so it was a chance for me to tick off another lead. Having flown up it the week before, it brought home the difference between leading and seconding. The tricky bit is a couple of moves above the start: "and awkward step up and left is made onto a sloping ledge". I'd seen Ed and Gordon struggle slightly, but it didn't phase me - until I was trying to lead it. Suddenly you feel the exposure. After that it was a breeze, although I don't think I put much gear in towards the top (mostly because the only thing I have that would go in the top break is a #9 Rockcentric, and I'd used it lower down (doh!).

By now Fluted Columns (VD ***) was free, and although it was getting late and cold, I persuaded Mike to do one last climb. It started spitting with rain just as I'd got racked and roped up, but we figured it wasn't going to be a problem, and we'd be off before the nastier looking weather arrived. Although I didn't struggle with the climb, I have to say it wasn't exactly elegant. Atop the columns, I was feeling very exposed and had to resort to putting a #3 friend (I think) into Fluted crack. The final slab above the columns was done functionally (rather than prettily). I think by now I realised I was actually quite tired (and probably hungry, it being 8 pm and not having eaten since lunch at noon), and it was definitely time to call it a day.

In total, we clocked up five routes:

• Bird's Nest Crack (Almscliff Crag #56, HS 4b P1 **) - lead
  
• Crack and Wall (Almscliff Crag #50, HS 4b P2) - lead
  
• South Chimney (Almscliff Crag #39, D P1) - lead
  
• Pinnacle Flake Climb (Almscliff Crag #7, S 4a P1) - lead
  
• Fluted Columns (Almscliff Crag #8, VD P1) - lead

and I failed miserably (and painfully) at two others (which I intend to seek revenge for):

• Central Crack (Almscliff Crag #48, HS 4b P1) - got off the ground and stuck
  
• South Chimney Layback (Almscliff Crag #50, S 4b P1) - got off the ground briefly and fell off (ouch)

Route numbers and grades are from the 1998 edition of Yorkshire Gritstone, compiled, revised and edited by Dave Musgrove.

Overall it was an enjoyable session. Lessons learnt include eat something (I even had some Trackers in my bag!), listen to Steve when he tells you Almscliff is horrible because it's all polished and listen to the guide book when it tells you climbs may be undergraded! I've spent most of the weekend aching, and hobbling to keep my left heel off the ground, although it's feeling better now, so no serious damage. Octopush tonight helped with the aches - and introduced some different ones (thanks Benson)!

Finally, whilst a poor workman never blames his (or her) tools, this trip has left me with a shopping list:

• A bouldering mat/crash pad - falling off before you're first bit of protection still hurts, plus (dare I say it) I may even try my hand at bouldering
  
• A new harness - to better organise my lead rack, and keep it away from my back for doing chimneys (OK - this is a lame excuse, but I just fancy a new harness, and I spotted a Wild Country harness in the shop at the Leeds Wall which looks pretty much exactly what I've been searching for ever since I started climbing, and up to now hadn't found)
  
• New rock boots - more friction required (I've noticed Mike seems to get more traction than I do, and I'm sure it isn't just to do with my weight)
  
• Bigger protection - I'm thinking a #4 Friend or a #9 Rockcentric (or bigger - I'm sure you used to be able to get a #10 Hex from Camp, when you were allowed to buy them and rope them up yourself)

The crash pad and boots are real possibilities. My boots are getting on a bit (even though they haven't had that much use - perhaps the rubber degrades over time?), and the crash pad would both help with some of the more dubious landings that exist, help me start with clean boots, but more importantly might get me into bouldering. I've never really seen the point of sitting down and pulling your backside off the floor. However, given that some of the bouldering routes are basically the lower half of climbs I've done (or failed), I'm thinking it might help my technique, which in turn can be put to practice on routes. With any luck, this should help me with my long term objective (which has been around for many years) to lead Great Western (HVS 5a P1 ****)...

We'd planned on going to Caley Crags for a boldering session last Tuesday, figuring we'd get a bit more time on the rock given that I had to be back in York for 20.00. However, it turned out Jenny was not at band practice, but actually had a gig on, so I didn't need to be back until 21.30. With the extra time, me Ed and Gordon decided it was worth a trip to Almscliffe instead.

And what a fantastic evening it was too! We headed straight to Low Man (because I've climbed there before and vaguely know my way around it) and enjoyed glorious sunshine, only slightly spoilt by the breeze on top of Low Man (Ed got a touch cold belaying Gordon and myself up Pinnacle Flake Climb). We only got in 3 routes (so slightly better than the last trip to Caley), but I thouroughly enjoyed them, had no dramas with gear falling out (although putting longer runners on the top break of Pinnacle Direct would have made the rope drag much more manageable...). Plus Ed lead his first climb outdoors, which is great news because hopefully it means we won't be reliant upon me to lead stuff all the time (and maybe I can take more photos!).

Everyone brought cameras, so there's a reasonable selection out there. Ed's are in his climbing set on Flickr, and Gordon's are currently on his machine at home until he pulls his finger out and edits them for upload onto Flickr as well. Saying that, the silhouette of Ed is the only shot I've processed so far - the rest will make their way onto the photo albums on here and onto my Flickr account in due course.

We still only managed 3 climbs, but as I said above, they were very enjoyable:

• Pinnacle Direct (Almscliff Crag #6, HVD P1) - lead
  
• Fluted Columns (Almscliff Crag #8, VD P1) - lead
  
• Pinnacle Flake Climb (Almscliff Crag #7, S 4a P1) - seconded (Ed lead)

Route numbers and grades are from the 1998 edition of Yorkshire Gritstone, compiled, revised and edited by Dave Musgrove.

We're off again to Almscliff on Friday, this time with Gordon, Mike and possibly Steve (who's fresh back from the Alps), but no Ed this time.

As an attempt to extend what I'm doing with this blog, and to motivate me to climb more outside, I'm going to start recording routes I've done.

I started writing this about 15 minutes ago, and wrote a long, detailed review of what we (me, Mike and Ed) did tonight at Caley Crags. Unfortunately, I then hit the wrong keys and closed the browser, loosing it all. So here's the short version.

Having only been to Caley once before, I decided to start on familiar territory, so we started with Pedestal Wall. No major dramas on the climb itself, other than all but one piece of protection falling out, and what was left wasn't going to do much more than stop me rolling all the way down the hill to Otley. I figure there must be a name for the jangling noise made by your bombproof gear placement falling out and sliding down the rope to stop on a ledge - but it's a noise I'd rather not hear again!

Second up was Square Chimney, another route I'd seconded on my previous visit. Much easier (well, less exposed), and much better protection (none of it fell out). And climbing chimneys is always something different after so much time at the wall. (Although the climbing wall in the gym at the Royal Marine Commando Training Centre at Lympstone has a chimney!)

Unfortunately, we ran out of time after that, so for the record, I did the following:

• Pedestal Wall (Caley Crags #64, S P2) - lead
  
• Square Chimney (Caley Crags #68, HVD P1) - lead

Route numbers and grades are from the 1998 edition of Yorkshire Gritstone, compiled, revised and edited by Dave Musgrove.

Afraid there are no pictures this time (unlike the last visit in August 2005) as I was constantly leading or belaying Ed and Mike. Hopefully they'll start leading outdoors soon, so I can sit back, enjoy the scenery and play with the camera.

After my second visit to Caley, I'm not sure I like the place. I think I probably need to explore a bit more, as I'm sure there are plenty of good Diffs and Severes to play with, and I probably need to get my head round leading outside and making good gear placements. Still, we're all feeling dead keen to get out again, so hopefully next week we may make it back to Caley (perhaps for bouldering, which should give more time on the rock as there's less faffing with gear and belays), or maybe even to Almscliffe to revisit some of the first routes I did outside on Low Man back when I started climbing around 1994/5.