Climbing at Caley Crags
Posted on 03/08/07 00:02
As an attempt to extend what I'm doing with this blog, and to motivate me to climb more outside, I'm going to start recording routes I've done.
I started writing this about 15 minutes ago, and wrote a long, detailed review of what we (me, Mike and Ed) did tonight at Caley Crags. Unfortunately, I then hit the wrong keys and closed the browser, loosing it all. So here's the short version.
Having only been to Caley once before, I decided to start on familiar territory, so we started with Pedestal Wall. No major dramas on the climb itself, other than all but one piece of protection falling out, and what was left wasn't going to do much more than stop me rolling all the way down the hill to Otley. I figure there must be a name for the jangling noise made by your bombproof gear placement falling out and sliding down the rope to stop on a ledge - but it's a noise I'd rather not hear again!
Second up was Square Chimney, another route I'd seconded on my previous visit. Much easier (well, less exposed), and much better protection (none of it fell out). And climbing chimneys is always something different after so much time at the wall. (Although the climbing wall in the gym at the Royal Marine Commando Training Centre at Lympstone has a chimney!)
Unfortunately, we ran out of time after that, so for the record, I did the following:
Route numbers and grades are from the 1998 edition of Yorkshire Gritstone, compiled, revised and edited by Dave Musgrove.
Afraid there are no pictures this time (unlike the last visit in August 2005) as I was constantly leading or belaying Ed and Mike. Hopefully they'll start leading outdoors soon, so I can sit back, enjoy the scenery and play with the camera.
After my second visit to Caley, I'm not sure I like the place. I think I probably need to explore a bit more, as I'm sure there are plenty of good Diffs and Severes to play with, and I probably need to get my head round leading outside and making good gear placements. Still, we're all feeling dead keen to get out again, so hopefully next week we may make it back to Caley (perhaps for bouldering, which should give more time on the rock as there's less faffing with gear and belays), or maybe even to Almscliffe to revisit some of the first routes I did outside on Low Man back when I started climbing around 1994/5.
I started writing this about 15 minutes ago, and wrote a long, detailed review of what we (me, Mike and Ed) did tonight at Caley Crags. Unfortunately, I then hit the wrong keys and closed the browser, loosing it all. So here's the short version.
Having only been to Caley once before, I decided to start on familiar territory, so we started with Pedestal Wall. No major dramas on the climb itself, other than all but one piece of protection falling out, and what was left wasn't going to do much more than stop me rolling all the way down the hill to Otley. I figure there must be a name for the jangling noise made by your bombproof gear placement falling out and sliding down the rope to stop on a ledge - but it's a noise I'd rather not hear again!
Second up was Square Chimney, another route I'd seconded on my previous visit. Much easier (well, less exposed), and much better protection (none of it fell out). And climbing chimneys is always something different after so much time at the wall. (Although the climbing wall in the gym at the Royal Marine Commando Training Centre at Lympstone has a chimney!)
Unfortunately, we ran out of time after that, so for the record, I did the following:
- Pedestal Wall (Caley Crags #64, S P2) - lead
- Square Chimney (Caley Crags #68, HVD P1) - lead
Route numbers and grades are from the 1998 edition of Yorkshire Gritstone, compiled, revised and edited by Dave Musgrove.
Afraid there are no pictures this time (unlike the last visit in August 2005) as I was constantly leading or belaying Ed and Mike. Hopefully they'll start leading outdoors soon, so I can sit back, enjoy the scenery and play with the camera.
After my second visit to Caley, I'm not sure I like the place. I think I probably need to explore a bit more, as I'm sure there are plenty of good Diffs and Severes to play with, and I probably need to get my head round leading outside and making good gear placements. Still, we're all feeling dead keen to get out again, so hopefully next week we may make it back to Caley (perhaps for bouldering, which should give more time on the rock as there's less faffing with gear and belays), or maybe even to Almscliffe to revisit some of the first routes I did outside on Low Man back when I started climbing around 1994/5.
